Coronado's Downtown Dream Comes at a Cost
Father and son duo Gilbert and Robert Coronado hope for a bright future for their namesake restaurant.
DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES — “Ever since I was a little boy I always wanted to own a restaurant,” said Gilbert Coronado, owner of Coronado’s on 5th near Spring. But for Gilbert, the dream has has proved to have its price.
Gilbert reminisced that he’d started coming Downtown when he was only seven years old. “My brother and I would ride bikes from East L.A. to Main Street to play in the penny arcades.”
When he turned 18, “suddenly the neighborhood went downhill.” As a result, Gilbert decided to pursue his dream of opening a restaurant elsewhere.
Using some business acumen and recipes passed down from his mother, Gilbert opened Coronado’s in San Gabriel. Gilbert’s son Robert, who had worked at restaurants during his college years, quit his job at a brokerage firm to join his father.
The San Gabriel eatery was busy at first, but as the once predominately Hispanic community became more Asian, business dropped. Eventually, a rent hike led them to shut down that location in February 2010.
While the pair had settled on moving to the Alexandria Hotel at the end of 2009, they didn’t sign a lease until August 2010. Among the holdups was waiting two months before the Health Department could confirm the space was zoned for restaurant use.
“When we first looked at this place, it was supposed to be a restaurant,” Gilbert said. “But the city said it was retail,” Robert added. Though the waste management department verified the location had previously been a restaurant, Robert said it took seven weeks before the Health Department confirmed the information.
While their San Gabriel location opened in just three months, it took close to a year to get the proper permits to open Downtown. “The city sent five different plumbing inspectors, and each one wanted additional things,” he said, approximating that this added $30,000 in costs and three months of opening delays.
Once business picks up, the pair plan to operate 24 hours a day, perhaps with a late night menu that will serve “nothing but omelettes.”
In the meantime, with the help of their next-door neighbor they’ve created a bar menu to serve to patrons at the Down and Out, offering American fare like Philly cheese steaks, sliders, chicken wings, and macaroni and cheese. Coronado’s also plans to provide food service for the Mezz on select nights upstairs at the Alexandria.
Coronado’s menu “is basically a lot of my mom’s recipes,” Robert explained. “We never use lard - I have this thing about grease. And we have no cans here,” except for the corn used in their menudo. “You can taste the freshness.”
In addition to the tacos, which they say customers have hailed as the best in town, the Coronados are proud to talk up their home style chili relleno and carne asada fries.
On Yelp, Coronado’s eight reviews for the new location are unanimous in their praise for the food, and the San Gabriel location closed with four and a half out of five stars.
Coronado's/212 W. 5th/213-784-1055
SinoSoul on January 19, 2011, at 12:15PM – #1
Glad they were able to re-open after shuttering last year. They were "victims" of changing demographics (apologize now on behalf of the Asians for not supporting the local Mexican establishments) just like Edward's in Rosemead.
Jamie DeFrisco on January 19, 2011, at 02:17PM – #2
Best is town is stretching it a bit, but the food is good. The people working there are really nice. It's definitely a place worth visiting. I didn't realize they were making the food for The Down and Out. Must check that out.
It's good to see an article on places that aren't as hyped up. I always feel sad to see a new restaurant or new, interesting businesses open up that doesn't get any attention. It would also be cool to see articles on existing businesses.
Bert Green (@bgfa) on January 19, 2011, at 02:40PM – #3
Tried it for the first time about a week ago and the food was really good.
Barry Penland on January 19, 2011, at 03:05PM – #4
Best carnitas I've had in awhile- slow-roasted for 7 hours. Freshly made tortillas. Tasty carne asada served with guacamole over steak fries. Modelo Especial on draft. Support these guys! Major win for the hood.
Paul on January 19, 2011, at 04:29PM – #5
The burritos (chicken and steak) were great. The salsa was a little bland, and the "guacamole" we got with the chips was just coarsely chopped unripe avocado.
I'd definitely order again, but would stick with my own side dishes.
Paul on January 19, 2011, at 04:32PM – #6
Also, it's really too bad that the City can't seem to get its act together with inspections and permitting. I wonder how many great restaurants downtown is missing out on because owners can't afford to deal with the City's bureaucracy.
Dixon on January 19, 2011, at 05:20PM – #7
I'm pretty sure the carnitas is braised, not roasted. Over at Grand Central Market, the carnitas is fried for a few hours in lard. Mmmmmm...........
Accessory Loft on January 19, 2011, at 06:30PM – #8
I LOVE Mexican food and was so excited to try Coronado's after reading all of the great Yelp reviews because Restaurant Ensenada just doesn't do it for me. I finally checked this place out on Friday night and was impressed with the food and service, but sad to see only a couple of patrons on what should be a busy night. First off, let me review the food: 1) We ordered enchiladas, but Robert recommended that we try the Carnitas b/c they had just come out of the roaster (after being slow roasted as Barry mentioned above). I don't even eat pork, but gave them a try and am hooked! 2) Margaritas were AMAZING.
Secondly, Robert went above and beyond with service, checking back frequently to make sure everything was good - love him!
I'm sad to hear about the extra costs incurred before opening - does that explain the migraine-inducing lighting?
This place needs the expertise of an interior decorator to lure in more customers. When walking by, it looks like a gallery w/a bar in the middle - not a restaurant.
Paint the walls, put in some mood lighting, and shazam - instant atmosphere upgrade that will attract more foot traffic.
Well, I hope my fellow bloggers don't get too scared off by the lighting b/c the food is really good, and definitely authentic!
Try this place and check out Two Bits market next door too : ).