The Must Lands at Pershing Square
Eric Richardson / blogdowntown
Coly Den Haan and Rachel Thomas stand on the 16th floor of the Pershing Square Building, one of two rooftop levels that will be part of Perch.
DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES — Eight months after the sudden closure of The Must, Coly Den Haan still gets a steady stream of emails eagerly asking when the wine bar will return to the Historic Core. "The support is amazing, but on some levels it's also depressing," she explained. "We're working so hard on it."
Finally, though, Den Haan and partner Rachel Thomas can give an answer: The Must will return this fall, two blocks west of the spot where it debuted in December of 2008.
Not only that, but the neighborhood wine bar will be joined by a slightly more upscale sibling in Perch, a rooftop lounge that the pair are working to open with Jeffrey Fish, owner of the Pershing Square Building at 5th and Hill.
Fish has been working on an ambitious renovation of the 1924 structure for five years now, and Perch will occupy two new floors that were added on top of the building's roof.
Den Haan and Thomas signed on to the project in November, and have been hard at work putting together the concept for the space, which features 360 degree views on both levels.
"It's so pretty that we don't want to screw with it too much," Den Haan said on Tuesday.
While the views will conjure up immediate comparisons to the rooftop bar at The Standard, Den Haan and Thomas are committed to making sure the space still keeps the neighborhood connection they built with The Must.
"Why can't we have a rooftop too?," asked Thomas.
The pair plan to open Perch in late May, just in time to take full advantage of summer weather.
The decor and menu—put together by chef Benjamin Udave—will be French, though with a simpler spin. "What we want to do up there is take French food and bastardize it the same way we did with taking white trash food for The Must and making it nice," Thomas explained.
Fourteen stories below, much of that same food will again be offered at The Must when it reopens in the fall. The look of the original space will carry over as well, though Den Haan and Thomas are working with architect Karin Liljegren of omgivning to add some new touches. The most noticeable of those will be a large, recessed patio on 5th Street, along with a private wine cellar and open kitchen that will look down on the familiar Must booths from a mezzanine level.
Den Haan and Thomas trust that The Must's regulars will follow them across Broadway, but are also excited for the chance to play a role in shaping a new corner.
"Spring Street has become really sort of congested," Thomas said. "We kind of like the fact that we're set apart."
The corner also puts them closer to many of the offices of the Financial District, and directly across the street from the Pershing Square subway station.
"The Must will be the first and last stop for people on the Metro," said Den Haan. "It'll be first thing you see and the last thing you see."
Down the road, the pair may also play a role in the development of the Pershing Square Building's large basement, which is zoned for a 7,000 square foot bar and lounge. For now, though, they're just glad to be working, and glad to finally have something to tell those emailers.
Bert Green (@bgfa) on March 23, 2011, at 12:59AM – #1
Great news. One correction, Eric, the new location is 2 blocks WEST, not east of the old Must location.
I had a chance to tour the space on the roof a month or so ago with Rachel and I think it will be fantastic.
TBerry on March 23, 2011, at 02:24AM – #2
This is really exciting. I loved The Must, and I'm sure my fellow residents in Metro 417 and our neighbor, the Title and Guarantee Building will echo my support of the choice of location... right across the street. Our dark little stretch of Hill Street has long been in need of some love.
Eric Richardson (@blogdowntown) on March 23, 2011, at 02:30AM – #3
Oops. Thanks Bert. I'll fix that.
Xavier Grobet on March 23, 2011, at 09:22AM – #4
Fantastic news for the neighborhood, we miss The Must.
Michael Sweeney on March 23, 2011, at 09:37AM – #5
This is great news and a primo location. Great to see that Rachel & Coly have stuck with it.
Dan in L A on March 23, 2011, at 11:24AM – #6
Wonderful news! I miss The Must and that corner needs some lovin'
Welcome back!!!
Alex Brideau III on March 23, 2011, at 11:26AM – #7
Chalk up another kudo for reestablishing The Must west of the great Broadway divide! I think this will go a long way toward reactivating this stretch of Hill. Being a few steps from the Metro will also provide some additional incentive for Hollywood and NoHo folks to drop by.
Alex Brideau III on March 23, 2011, at 11:32AM – #8
This will also help spread out the pedestrian flow during Art Walk, making it all the more tempting for non-downtowners to "Go Metro" to Art Walk.
(And, no I don't work for Metro. I'm just a transit geek. :-)
Jamie DeFrisco on March 23, 2011, at 12:18PM – #9
I agree absolutely with Alex. I was thinking the same thing. It's good to have more night life around Pershing Square and also connect the pieces of downtown together.
It's great to hear that The Must is returning. I'm also excited about the new rooftop place.
Don Garza on March 23, 2011, at 01:11PM – #10
will they still have tater tots?
Dixon on March 23, 2011, at 02:23PM – #11
Congratualtions to Den and Rachael! Believe me, they'll be much better off in their new digs than renting from Gilmore! They'd end up with another Rico there (think Banquette).
Ace Goodman on March 23, 2011, at 02:35PM – #12
Cool, one less place for the Crocker Club to move to when we kick their sorry asses out of the neighborhood for attracting the loud, classless crowd that they do. They are Hollywood bound for sure. That location deserves class owners who care about the neighborhood and the community.
Accessory Loft on March 23, 2011, at 10:16PM – #13
So excited to hear that they won't be opening on Spring St., however, I wouldn't go to Pershing Square at night if someone paid me $100. Ever heard of the 5th and Hill gang? They STILL run that corner. On second thought, a bunch of loud, obnoxious bar goers who really don't give a s&* may help push them out!
Anthony Jones on March 24, 2011, at 01:39AM – #14
Is there really a Fifth and Hill gang? LOL...
Russell on March 24, 2011, at 08:11AM – #15
i walk my dog at pershing square almost every night! if the hill gang are still running that corner, the are doing a pretty bad job.
Jamie DeFrisco on March 24, 2011, at 09:51AM – #16
I get off at the red line Pershing square station when I come home from work. There's also been other times I've walked past that area at night and I've never had any issues. I did have some crazy guy(he was either on something or actually crazy) freak me out a little while waiting for a bus in the middle of the day once.
Dixon on March 24, 2011, at 09:58AM – #17
The 5th and Hill gang packs up and leaves shortly after six. That's when most of the Broadway crowd is gone and they can't deal heroin in that area anymore.
The heroin traffic is centered around 5th street between Pershing Square (Metro stop) and Spring. There's no heroin action in the area at night.
KJ1 on March 24, 2011, at 10:30AM – #18
Not to go too far off topic, but there is some serious drug traffic happening @ night on Los Angeles St. near the Toy District.
skidrowdude on March 24, 2011, at 12:40PM – #19
YESSSSSSSSS! This is such great news! I cannot wait to try the restaurant too. I'm up in Sacramento for 6 months and am already homesick for DTLA- but this really gives me somethhing to look forward to when I return in fall.
It almost brings tears to my eyes I'm so happy :-)
Ace Goodman on March 24, 2011, at 12:56PM – #20
The black dudes in wheelchairs openly peddle vicodin and other pills on 5th street between Main and Broadway.
Ted on March 24, 2011, at 01:51PM – #21
"I wouldn't go to Pershing Square at night if someone paid me $100." That's dated. When I moved Downtown five years ago, the north side of 5th between Broadway and Hill was terrifying at night. It's ok now, and I'm comfortable walking to the Subway or Rite Aid in the evening. With the new residential building open at 5th and Broadway it should get even better,
Don Garza on March 24, 2011, at 03:32PM – #22
once again will they have tator tots? no answer... Looking forward to the Must opening again..
Dixon on March 24, 2011, at 05:43PM – #23
"once again will they have tator tots?"
Don, Tator Tots are available at most large markets--such as Ralph's downtown--and are easily prepared at home. You can bake them, pan fry them or deep fat fry them right on your stovetop.
You don't need to go to a bar to enjoy them. They taste pretty much the same at home.
If you're feeling like serious cooking, you can try some of the Tator Tot-topped casseroles here:
http://www.oreida.com/products/tater-tots.aspx
Jamie DeFrisco on March 24, 2011, at 09:01PM – #24
I don't think it's the tater tots as much as it's the cheese you dip them in (or at least that's the case for me). I do hope that returns. As well as their floats.
Big Wangs has tater tots if you're not the cooking type.
Don Garza on March 25, 2011, at 03:08AM – #25
ok , will head over to big wang's then... on another note... I liked the fact that I could get tator tots at the MUST after a neighborhood type meting.... would hope they have them at the MUST again....
Pamela Rouse (@) on March 27, 2011, at 06:00AM – #26
Don.. weren't those sweet potato tater tots?? I liked them too.. and I don't think it is something you can get in a grocery store.
It'll be nice to see our downtown neighbors back in business again.
Don Garza on March 27, 2011, at 07:46AM – #27
that's right... were they sweet potato tator tots? hmmm.... sounds about right....
Friendly Neighbor on March 27, 2011, at 01:36PM – #28
GOSH! As a Metro 417 resident, this is exciting news!!! I hope Perch offers bottomless mimosa brunch on the weekends! How amazing would that be??
Jeff Alu on March 27, 2011, at 10:29PM – #29
I unfortunately have moved from downtown but hope to be back soon and if nothing else will stop by to check out the new Must! I MUST!
DawnC on March 30, 2011, at 09:10AM – #30
Congrats to The Must folks and congrats to us in DTLA for having another rooftop view to enjoy the city from.
Ankur on March 31, 2011, at 12:14PM – #31
Glad you guys made a comeback! Keep the low-ish HH prices, and you are golden.
(and the board game night PLEASE!)
Carrie Cheung on April 07, 2011, at 12:16AM – #32
YAY!!! Can't wait for the openings!! ..and yes, bring back the tator tots!!!
Ellys on April 13, 2011, at 10:08PM – #33
Awesome! We are moving to Metro 417 in a couple of months - we miss the Must! That is great news!
Dennis Smith on July 17, 2011, at 10:24PM – #34
It seems like the latest developments for the Perch includes an application with the police to operate a dance hall on the rooftop of the Pershing Square Building. I'm not sure how that will go over with the folks living in the three adjacent residential buildings so it will be interesting to see what kind of reaction there is to the public application process.
Any chance we could get some information from someone representing Jeffrey/Coly/Rachel updating the community on these new plans for this space, especially as it might pertain to the noise abatement concerns of those in the neighborhood?