Baking a New Story on Broadway

By Ed Fuentes
Published: Thursday, March 06, 2008, at 12:46PM

Ed Fuentes

Lupe Martinez stands inside L.A. Gourmet Bakery, located at 548 S. Broadway.

DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES —

From fresh Mexican bread at Grand Central Market to apple pie at Clifton's, Broadway has long been a spot for picking up something baked. In between the two sits a new spot that brings a different aesthetic to a street that's seldom known for understated design.

Rafael and Lupe Martinez opened L.A. Gourmet Bakery in July of 2007 after 18 months of preparation and cutting through red tape. The 2400 square foot space includes a large, clean and airy place and a kitchen that has warm sugary smells wafting in. It was well worth the wait, says Lupe, who has 20 years of experience in baking. The husband and wife team are from Guanajuato, Mexico, where they previously owned a bakery before briefly working in the jewelry industry.

Rafael runs the business end of the bakery, while Lupe is the baker and cake designer, making fresh pastries daily. Both put in long hours, from 4am to 8pm, and business has been growing.

The debate over Broadway revitalization frequently includes the claim that Latino-based businesses will be pushed off a street that they have served for decades. Rafael and Lupe don't see it that way.

The bakery reflects neighborhood goals of attractive ground floor retail, without compromising ethnic influences. "We have some (Latino) shop owners come in, and suggest we fill the walls with signs," she says. Instead, the high walls are painted white, and highlighted by carefully chosen posters. "It helps our store stands out from the others," she beams.

It's the pastries that bring people back, as lofties were seen coming while I was there, all part of a loyal following Downtown. Lupe credits her old oven for baking the best cakes. "We had to talk the Health inspectors into letting us keep it," she notes.

One specialty is the fruit cocktail dulce de leche cake ($17.95), which has fruit between 3 layers, topped with fresh fruit. It is definitely worth a try.

Despite a modest sign, the bakery shouldn't be hard to find. Just look for the large cakes and the bright white walls.

L.A. Gourmet Bakery / 548 South Broadway / Downtown

Comments

Metro_Vaquero writes:

That's a cool little piece Ed. I know these people since I was about 5 or 6 years old. They have ties to the Northeast San Fernando Valley through other businesses (e.g. jewelry),which is how my mother met them through dealings etc.

They used to have their bakery over there on 4th Street, between Broadway and Spring. During the December Blogdowntown photoshoot, Lupe actually came out and quasi-confronted me about taking a photo of her display cake. She thought I was an inspector of sorts, but then I quickly noted in Spanish...."you look very familiar." Kinda funny actually, then she gave me a big hug. I hadn't seen her since the early 90's. Her shop has come a long way, I told her I'd go back and photoshoot her spot. As this place changes, I believe it is crucial we continue documenting and capture the stories and faces of our great city.

# on Mar.06.2008 AT 01:11 PM

Metro_Vaquero writes:

FYI, You might wanna verify her husbands name. Unless he went through a name change, we always knew him as Ramiro.

# on Mar.06.2008 AT 01:14 PM

Eric Richardson writes:

Ed's going to double check on that name, but in the interim I tried Google and the only result I found was Myspace news picking up this story. That really doesn't help.

# on Mar.06.2008 AT 01:22 PM

David Kennedy writes:

I count myself as one of those who frets that improving Broadway ultimately means eliminating the Latino presence. Affluent lofties don't and won't walk Broadway. They actually have a point because for the most part they don't see any reason to. The businesses on Broadway don't cater to them.

L.A. Gourmet Bakery clearly thinks they can cater to both -- the down-market Latinos thronging the street and the affluent yet timid lofties. They make good stuff. My Mexican wife latched onto the place as soon as it opened. I wish them every success in serving both of these markets. Broadway needs more of these kinds of entrepreneurs, who can work both sides of the street.

# on Mar.06.2008 AT 02:57 PM

Bert Green writes:

Actually they used to be on 5th Street, between Broadway and Spring. When I first opened the gallery, I bought a birthday cake there for a friend. YUM!

# on Mar.06.2008 AT 03:08 PM

love and hate los angeles writes:

Let's not generalize or stereotype. Not all latinos are "down market" as you put it David. And not all lofties are "affluent".

I am an upper-middle class hispanic, just so you know. I think we all regardless of race, make a concious effort and choose where and how to spend our money. Whether its a nice home, fancy car,travel or even have kids.

The fact of the matter downtown los angeles and specifically in and around the area of Broadway has always been a transportation gateway, to and from for people. Also a shopping destination.

And how everything is cyclical and evolves- some good and some not so good occurs. Nothing lasts forever and life is full of changes.

passionate and sensual -"le echamos ganas" -Proud Hispanic

# on Mar.06.2008 AT 03:20 PM

AFS writes:

I've tried to stop by many a time. What are the weekend hours? Do they serve coffee too? Great story.

# on Mar.06.2008 AT 03:54 PM

David Kennedy writes:

LH: I take is as obvious that not all Latinos shopping on Broadway are down-market or that not all lofties are affluent. I never used the adjective 'all'. (Why you would make that inference is a mystery to me.) As you point out, I was generalizing. I don't see anything wrong with generalizing if it is accurate and clarifies discussion. I think it does here. Hence, my post.

The fact of the matter is the vast majority of shoppers on Broadway are low-income Latinos. The fact of the matter is most people living in downtown are very affluent ($100K households is my understanding). I'd don't see anything controversial about stating these facts. Moroever, that's the key point. The masses of down-market Latino shoppers are catered to by businesses which are of no interest to the affluent lofties. This business is trying to cater to both. That's a very good thing.

I'm not clear why you would take umbrage at the stating of these facts. The description of the Latino shoppers as 'down-market' is accurate. It was not intended as a perjorative. Given the bulk of my Latino in-laws fit this description, I'd be foolish to do look down on these Latinos. Also, given that I've lived on Broadway for over a decade might suggest I quite like their company.

# on Mar.06.2008 AT 04:25 PM

Metro_Vaquero writes:

Bert: Yes Yum. But you're actually off. Its 4th Street :) I'm going back to mid 1980s, pre-Galleries and what not.

# on Mar.06.2008 AT 05:33 PM

Moises Martinez writes:

Just so you know, your both correct. the bakery used to be on 4th st. and later because of some problems with the utilities at the locations, it was moved to 5th st. and now moved to its current location. It was once called Estrellas Bakery.

# on Mar.06.2008 AT 07:46 PM

Ed Fuentes writes:

After double checking notes and in person, he goes by Rafael. The company policy is if you buy a custom large sheet cake for $49, you can call him whatever you want.

During the interview, Lupe referred to the last location as 5th St, but doesn't mean they did not have a previous location.

If this is an example of down-market Latino retail, keep me suppressed!

Still, these comments are worth discussing, in person, with some pastry items in front of us all.

# on Mar.06.2008 AT 08:04 PM

Moises writes:

his middle name is Ramiro

# on Mar.14.2008 AT 09:02 AM