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The Original Pantry Celebrates 85 Years of No Major Changes

By Ed Fuentes
Published: Thursday, April 30, 2009, at 09:32AM
ExitPantry Ed Fuentes

"Never been closed . ." is the proud declaration made at the entrance of The Pantry. It first opened in 1924, just one block west of its current location. It has been at 9th and Fig since 1950.

DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES — The Original Pantry celebrated its 85th year on Wednesday in simple Pantry style; some balloons marked the day, a small birthday cake sat in the corner, and a low-priced short stack of pancakes specials were served. It made for a no-nonsense celebration that reflected the 9th and Figueroa eatery that is never closed and never without a customer.

The main doors do not have working locks, and if you wander in at 2:30am you may glimpse the place empty of customers, but just briefly.

It's more typical to see long lines of workers, regulars, and newcomers wrapping outside the building, waiting to dig into the popular breakfasts. As it happens, breakfast outsells dinner and for two years now The Pantry has carried a modified morning menu for the whole day.

That has been just about the biggest change for The Pantry in quite a while.

While the place is a bit rough around the edges, and waiters are not afraid to speak briskly, Manager David Wall's standing orders are simple. Don't fancy up anything. That's at the behest of owner Richard Riordan, the former Los Angeles Mayor who saved the Pantry from development 20 years ago.

“It’s authentic and kept that way," says Wall. “Menu items are surveyed and they have to add to the ambiance. They have to be Pantry-esque in its reality.”

The regulars can also be regarded as Pantry-esque. On Fall weekends, gruff solo diners mix with USC alum in town for a game. The night has clubbers wearing black next to Laker fans wearing Purple and Gold. Not only do lawyers sit next to construction workers, they know each other.

The Pantry's way is not for all. Many feel the food is too heavy, that the service is brusk, or that the lines simply aren't worth the wait. People keep waiting, though, so apparently they're doing something right.

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IMGP3811 Ed Fuentes

Roberto Jimenez, who has worked at the Pantry for 30 years, was playing with Los Paisanos for the today's 85th Anniversary Celebration. "It feels like I started working here yesterday." say Jimenez.

IMGP3829 Ed Fuentes

Manager David Wall takes a moment to watch his diner profiled live on local news.

IMGP3827 Ed Fuentes

A simple celebration for an 85 year old. Earlier that morning, former Mayor Richard Riordan greeted early morning customers behind the counter.


Conversation

Guest 1

EL CHAVO! on April 30, 2009, at 08:19PM – #1

It was closed when they had that vermin infestation some time ago. They should probably change the sign.


Guest 2

David Kennedy on April 30, 2009, at 09:26PM – #2

I quite liked this quote:

“Menu items are surveyed and they have to add to the ambiance. They have to be Pantry-esque in its reality.”

I enjoy the idea the restaurant has its own reality. Nifty.


Guest 3

Jasmijn on May 01, 2009, at 09:49AM – #3

We were out & about yesterday and walked to Little Tokyo; would have stopped in for a bite at the Pantry instead if we'd known it was their anniversary!

Not that we don't go there fairly often anyway.


Guest 4

Oscar on May 01, 2009, at 01:49PM – #4

Look at that horribly underexposed picture!!! Isn't there an editor in blogdowntown?

Anyway, I looooove this place, but I only like to go around 12-1:30 a when it's not packed neither empty, I miss that very old, old, old waiter that finally retired a couple of years ago...


Guest 5

Will Campbell on May 03, 2009, at 06:50AM – #5

Indeed as El Chavo recalls correctly The Original Pantry suffered the indignity of by health inspectors on November 26, 1997, reopening the next day.

It's no surprise Riordan choses to ignore that dark day in his eatery's history.


Guest 6

Pantry Papa on May 05, 2009, at 02:34PM – #6

The "closure" was politically motivated, as are those here who herald it.

I can't say I like Riordan's history with the CRA, or what he did to Mattel Toys, but he certainly was a better mayor than Mike Woo could ever be.

As much as I am opposed 100% to everything Mayor Villar represents (socialism), he at least brings to the office some personality and charisma that Hahn lacked. Riordan never complained as mayor, but sought to make the city a better place for all. Likewise, when the aholes conspired to close the Pantry, he did not complain, but simply set about to fix it to standards beyond reproach.



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